Acland Street and Fitzroy Street are the two poles and the Esplanade runs between them: Luna Park, the Palais, the Sunday market along the seawall, and the little penguins that live in the breakwater. The St Kilda Botanical Gardens off Blessington Street are the quieter local secret.
People arrive for the beach and the music rooms, land in a flat off Fitzroy or Acland Street, then discover the suburb turns over so fast that everyone's friends seem to have just left. The 96 tram runs from the city straight to Acland Street and the 16 follows the Esplanade, so a standing table here survives any season, even the grey ones.