Blok M is where south Jakarta converges: the MRT station and the old bus terminal below, Blok M Plaza and Blok M Square above, and M Bloc Space, the former mint-workers' housing turned record stores, coffee and live music. Taman Literasi, the park beside the station, finally gave the whole block somewhere to breathe.
Then there is the food: the gultik carts around Bulungan ladling gulai over rice till late, the kaki lima rows, and enough cheap-and-good that a weekly table never eats the same thing twice. It is the rare Jakarta neighbourhood everyone can actually reach by public transport, which matters more to a standing table than any of it.