The grid empties at six, which is exactly when it gets good: the laneway rooms that were impossible at lunch have tables at 6:30. The move for a first table is somewhere off Flinders Lane or Hardware Lane with a long table and no DJ, close enough to a station that nobody does the "I should get going" at 7:40. City workers and city dwellers: post the rooms that keep a weeknight table of five, and how late they will let you hold it.