Lygon Street at 7pm is a wall of noise, which is wonderful and useless for a first table. The trick is one street either side: the trattorias on the side streets keep long tables and conversational volume, the wine bars toward Rathdowne stay calm on weeknights, and the north end past Elgin quietens fast. House picks to start: a long-table trattoria one street off the strip, or a back-room cafe toward the university that pours until late. Add yours below, with the noise-at-7pm verdict.